The Science of Smooth: How Nanoplasty Works Without Breaking Disulfide Bonds

Hair’s shape whether straight, wavy, or curly is determined by the configuration of disulfide bonds within the cortex, the hair’s innermost layer. These bonds are formed between sulfur atoms in the amino acid cysteine, creating cross-links that give the hair its internal structure and elasticity.

Permanent straightening treatments (like Japanese thermal reconditioning or chemical relaxers) contain strong reducing agents such as ammonium thioglycolate or sodium hydroxide. These chemicals break the disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to be reshaped into a straight configuration. Once heat is applied, the bonds are reformed in their new, straight pattern a true molecular restructuring of the hair’s internal architecture.

Nanoplasty, by contrast, uses acidic amino acids, collagen, keratin, and nano-sized particles that act on the outer cuticle rather than the inner cortex. These ingredients do not reduce or cleave the disulfide bonds. Instead, they coat and fill microscopic gaps in the cuticle, aligning the surface and sealing it through heat (usually from a flat iron). This creates a temporary smoothing effect that can make the hair appear straighter, but the internal curl structure remains unchanged.

Because the natural disulfide network is intact, nanoplasty results gradually wash out as the coating wears off, usually after 2–4 months. In short:

• Nanoplasty = surface-level smoothing (no bond breaking)

• Japanese straightening = internal bond restructuring (true straightening)

This distinction explains why nanoplasty is safer and gentler on hair — especially coloured or damaged strands but cannot permanently alter texture.